Urban Thai
2795 Cabot Dr., #170
Corona, CA 92883

If you’re looking for authentic Thai food, imported straight from Thailand and guaranteed to
scorch your taste buds, then you might be disappointed. Of course, if owner Amy Lam and her
seven sibling partners—who also run an additional eight Asian-inspired restaurants up and
down California—wanted a traditional Thai restaurant, they wouldn’t have named the place
Urban Thai, a moniker that suggests a Thailand-oriented fare for an urban California
environment.

There is a lot to be said for small restaurant owners, as their attention to detail and
personality is unmatched by the larger chain restaurants in almost every way. Amy Lam was
very personable and disarming the moment I walked in to the 15-table sparsely decorated but
warmly inviting dining room. On the main wall is a textured wall reminiscent of a wind-swept
sandy dune that gives the environment a contemporary feel. The staff is small, three servers
and four in the kitchen, but the service was quick and efficient. Though open since October,
former bio-chemist-turned restaurateur  Lam says of Urban Thai, “Business is good but it can
always be better,” which has been a motif to the other shops and stores in the Dos Lagos
Promenade area: Word of its charm and spender is slowly catching on, but the crowds have
been somewhat reluctant to arrive en masse like they do at Crossroads or down south at
Elsinore’s outlets.

To be fair, my only exposure to Thai food had been from a completely traditional restaurant in
downtown Los Angeles, and although it was a series of very interesting experiences, it is rough
to admit that I enjoyed what I ate. In retrospect, my menu choice was unguided and my
inexperience as a novice Thai food eater was equally shameful, so much so, that I ordered the
spiciest of foods, thinking Thai spices equate to more familiar and tolerable Mexican spices. At
Urban Thai, the exact opposite occurred. I left everything up to Lam and she brought to my
table selections that have become popular among her more regular patrons. As far as the
traditional Thai spice is concerned, that’s what makes Urban Thai unorthodox: They use less
fish-based sauces and much less of the fiery spices that tend to turn people away from this
soon-to-be trendy ethnic food. However, don’t be fooled into thinking that Urban Thai’s
cuisines are bland as Midwestern meatloaf; thanks to their hospitality learned from the
catering side of the business, each plate can be tailored to an individual’s specific needs. You
want to burn your mouth and drink a lot of water? Ask for a 10. But if you like Midwestern
meatloaf, ask for a one and breath easy. Me? I went the middle of the road, which is how each
dish is prepared unless otherwise requested.

I started with a drink, as I always like to have a Diet Coke handy as a benchmark between
selections, but Amy suggested I try something different. I’m always ready for something
different, but much to my surprise, a coconut soon arrived at my table, an entire coconut, with
the top carved open and a straw sticking out. Young coconut juice isn’t sweet like we would
expect from processed coconut, but slightly on the sour side and unexpectedly refreshing. The
little paper umbrella helped give it that toes-in-the-sand aire you would expect from having a
whole coconut in your hand 40 miles from the ocean.

A two-tiered tower of Urban Thai’s Samplers appeared next. On the top tier were spring rolls
and summer rolls with gold bags. The spring rolls were crispy and light, especially when dipped
in the plum sauce. The summer rolls seemed to be too much lettuce and not enough cilantro,
bean sprouts and shrimp, so it tasted more like a salad wrapped in thin soy paper than
anything else. On the bottom level, the skewered chicken and beef satays in a bed of lettuce
were a delicious appetizer, especially when dipped in the peanut and hoisin sauce… which I
completely confused which appetizer goes with which dipping sauce, so I tried them all, with
mixed results. The samplers serves two.

Also known as Yum Nuea (which literally means “tossed beef”, the Thaiger Beef Salad is a mix
of onions, cucumber and lime chili dressing with large chunks of beef scattered on top. It was
difficult not to simply pick off all the beef and leave the cucumber in the plate, especially after
just having the satays, but you’d be missing out on the combination of flavors—the sour of the
lime chili, the slight sweetness of the cucumbers and the kick of the onions—if you did that.    

I’m not a soup eater, as it is always too much work with very little reward, but the Tom Yum
Gai, characterized by its hot and sour flavors, is made from lemon grass, soy beans, ginger,
straw mushrooms and baby corn and offers a hot and medium spiced grouping of zest.

If I had known that three main dishes were being prepared in the kitchen by Bill Chen and
Huyo Gonzalez (from recipes perfected by Tong Ing at the Aliso Viejo restaurant) that would
soon fill the table to capacity, I wouldn’t have eaten so much of the salad, soup and satays.
However, when each of them arrived in quick succession, there was very little stopping me from
enjoying what each unique plate had to offer.

Probably my favorite of the three was the one that was least Thai (while my least favorite was
the one that was most Thai), ironically, as the Black Pepper Steak is a French-Vietnamese dish
served with mushrooms, red onions and lettuce. The peppers didn’t overpower the meat, while
the onions and mushrooms were a familiar addition to an otherwise interesting take on
recognizable dish.

Spicy Halibuts Filets were most filling and tasted most like sweet and sour chicken you would
find at a Chinese take-out, but elevating well above the rudimentary buckets of food slopped
out at a typical take-out joint was the combination of the pineapple, bell peppers and onions.
The halibut was lightly deep fried in a simple flour-based batter and drizzled with a sweet
sauce brought out by the pineapple flavors.

The traditional Pad Thai is, no doubt, a favorite among Thai food purists, and I’m not going to
say that I didn’t like it, because I did, but what I didn’t like was the traditional way of eating
Pad Thai. It consists of noodles, shrimp, chicken, peanuts and bean sprouts, and the
customary way of eating it is to get a little bit of each item into every bite. It all went well until
I included the peanuts and that became the dominating theme. After abandoning them and
sticking to just the noodles and shrimp and/or chicken, it earned that melt-in-my mouth
sensation I do so enjoy.

As if I couldn’t eat another bite of anything, slid in front of me was the dessert, an overflowing
plate of mango and coconut ice cream slowly melting over fried banana slices and drizzled with
honey . The coconut ice cream had actual coconut shavings in it, but I felt that it clashed with
the semi-tartness of the banana; whereas the mango was most certainly more agreeable. And
honey just goes with everything.

There’s no question that the popularity of Thai food is on the rise, soon to replace sushi as the
new and trendy place to hang out and refine your culinary culture skills. Trust me, you’ll want
to be the first on your block to visit Urban Thai before it becomes too popular!

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